A fair number of months ago, I wrote this blogpost/article about low-mount turbo chargers for the SR20DET. I'm glad it's gone into circulation as well as it has. For those of you who have read that article, first of all, thanks, and secondly, you may recall that I had procured myself a "Super Duper" thanks to Sunny and Kemp aka STR8E180.
Recapping on the above-mentioned blogpost/article, this turbo isn't available for purchase and is a custom construct following years of R&D. There are only two others like it and none of them are identical. A Super Duper should push out 280rwkW on 98RON and drop in cams on an SR20DET. I would like to see what it's capable of on E85.
The creators of the turbo were looking to develop the most power-productive turbocharger that can be low-mounted to an SR20DET. The turbocharger has been in my possession since August 2013 and I have been procrastinating on putting the setup together.
I'm pleased that the turbo fits. The manifold took a bit of surgery to get working (the wastegate flange fouled up against the gearbox and the runners come eerily close to the ABS unit). A stock airbox was fitted as I'm hoping to get this setup as stealth as possible. The engine bay is in a mess but we'll get there slowly.
Currently, the following mods are:
- Haltech PLatinum pro plugin
- Wideband, ethanol, air temp, 4 bar map sensors
- 3 inch turboback exhaust with no interruptions vinishing with Varex muffler
- Walbro 450LPH fuel pump
- 1000cc injectors
- Custom steam pipe manifold
- A Super Duper
Soon we'll have:
- Catch can
- 264 in/ex cams
- Adjustable cam gears
The tune on the ECU is a very rough tune at the moment as Powertune Australia was moving at the time and thus we'll be knocking out a complete flex tune after I have the cams in. I find myself laughing as I say "a very rough tune" as that was the words out of the tuner's mouth, however in all my years meeting car owners, I'd say this tune would be in the top 10% of tunes I've encountered in terms of quality even when compared to complete tunes. Chea's a gun. We're unsure what power the car makes yet, the car didn't even hit the rollers, however it's all safe. All I can say is that my eyeballs vibrate in third and when on gate! Oh and I don't have a boost gauge so I can't even tell you how much boost I'm making. For all this info, you're just going to have to stay tuned!
Showing posts with label Cars & Tuning. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cars & Tuning. Show all posts
Saturday, 31 May 2014
Friday, 20 September 2013
A little on low-mounts
One commonly discussed subject is that of low-mount turbocharger options for the SR20DET Silvia. Indeed there are quite a few options out there, but I thought I'd make an attempt at drawing a picture of some of my findings over the last few years in industry.
In this article we'll strictly address the line of Nissan Silvias in the 2.0L turbocharged variety (the most commonly modified one). Whether it be for the thick-skinned 13, old-famed 14, or fast-maturing 15; the low mount turbo for the SR20DET is a strategic option for those chasing a quick and nasty power upgrade, with as little fuss as possible.
Before we begin, just a few acknowledgements to a few peers who have been my teachers, guides and mentors. Thanks to Chea of Powertune Australia for his undying passion and untiring inquisitive spirit who is always on a personal mission to perfect the turbocharged injection engine.
Also, a warm thank you to Sunny, my old, grumpy and curious friend who for years has endured my incessant questioning. Along with him, thank you Kemp (STR8E180) also of Powertune Australia for his ever fervent pursuit for maximal performance in street-car modifications. To you two guys, I also say thank you for building me a "Super Duper".
Without you all, this article would not have come about so detailed.
We'll be comparing several notable factors that stand out to comparing these turbos. They are:
Price: Rough price on these turbos brand new and second hand if available
Affect on performance: What performance changes can be expected
Ease-of-fitting: Testing how close it is to being a true 'bolt-on' turbo
Construction: Materials and/or manufacturing process used
Pros: The good
Cons: The bad
Common Demographic: Common buyers of this turbo
I'll aim at covering the market-share of tried, tested and proven turbochargers, so although there may be a list of turbochargers which suit the testing criteria, if you don't see it here, it's because it's not something I've seen a lot of - thus can't really comment on.
All tests were carried out with SR20 Silvias that are at what I have affectionately dubbed, "The Stage 1 Level of Modification". A Silvia at Stage 1 generally means it reps a fmic, full turbo-back exhaust, boost controller, fuel pump upgrade, injector upgrade aftermarket ECU, Z32 AFM (or MAP sensor) and a tune - AKA "The usual mods".
Onto the comparo.
The Comparo
Sure enough against the tiny T25 that came with all S13s, it's a an upgrade. However, this guy is not much of an upgrade when compared to its S14 and S15 journal bearing counter-parts.
Many gurus will argue that the ball-bearing variant will spool up quicker and make a little more power than the journal-bearing version. However, I'm yet to find a single soul who can pick the difference between either turbo when measuring in-the-seat-of-the-pants experience - because I can't.
This turbo is a popular choice because you can get away with fitting it to a factory SR20 Silvia without having to retune it (not that it's a good idea). Furthermore, it's cheap. You can pick one up second for a couple of hundred bucks max, or brand new for about $1400.
Price: Approximately $1400 brand new or $200-$400 second hand
Affect on performance: Approximately 200rwkW on a Stage 1 setup @ 18psi on pump fuel. Response as standard.
Ease-of-fitting: Direct bolt on. Recommend braided line kit.
Construction: Cast aluminium front housing, cast iron rear housing, forged aluminium compressor wheel, steel turbine wheel, steel ball-bearings.
Pros: Cheap, an upgrade when compared to the standard S13 T25.
Cons: Not much of an upgrade at all.
Common Demographic: Those looking to replace their damaged standard turbo.
Although it only put out a meager 209kW at the wheels, the judges were highly impressed by its torque and lack of turbo lag. The poo brown Sentra would dance like it was 1999, earning the name "The Disco Potato". The turbo immediately adopted the name of the car it was tested on and has been known as the Disco Potato since.
This turbo was once a favoured upgrade for the SR20DET Silvias. It was a direct bolt-on replacement, relatively cheap and although didn't offer gigantic power upgrades, certainly did (and does) provide a big torquey kick in the pants.
A lot of people got into the habit of strapping this onto their setups without a tune. I remember one of the first 180SXs I had ever test driven and considered buying repped a Disco Potato with no tune. Oh memories.
One common mistake I've come across is this turbo being mistaken for the GT2871RS or GTRS listed below. Comes in both 0.64 and 0.86 A/R, both which are popular.
An energetic little turbo that will provide plenty of fun to those who don't demand massive power.
Price: Approximately $1400 brand new or $800 second hand
Affect on performance: On the 0.64 rear housing - Approximately 200rwkW on a Stage 1 setup @ 18psi on pump fuel. Increased torque and response from the standard turbo. Very snappy.
On the 0.86 rear housing - Approximately 220rwkW on a Stage 1 setup @ 18psi on pump fuel. Higher torque but lower response from the standard turbo.
Ease-of-fitting: Direct bolt on. Recommend braided line kit.
Construction: Cast aluminium front housing, cast iron rear housing, forged aluminium compressor wheel, steel turbine wheel, steel ball-bearings.
Pros: Cheap, an upgrade when compared to any standard Silvia turbo.
Cons: Not a large power upgrade.
Common Demographic: Those looking for a little extra excitement from the standard setup.
This turbocharger once used to (and still does to a degree) dominate online forums as being one of the best or most highly rated turbochargers for a street-driven SR20DET Silvia. Being (at the time) the largest low-mount, true-bolt-in turbo solution, it's not hard to see why.
However, compared to the standard unit, the turbo is a little on the lazy side and although offers a decent power upgrade, is often criticized for not justifying the amount of lag it introduces (All the tease, none the squeeze). This is particularly apparent in the 0.86 rear housing (heaven knows who or what convinced those poor souls to purchase this already laggy turbo in a 0.86!).
Overall, a tease. The GT2871R has a bark that is a lot more impressive than its bite.
Note: The T518Z is a journal bearing turbo and generally sees slightly higher power figures than its ball-bearing counter-parts. Because of such a small difference in testing criteria, I feel it's appropriate to bundle these turbos together.
Price: Approximately $1500 brand new or $1100 second hand
Affect on performance: Approximately 225rwkW on a Stage 1 setup @ 18psi on pump fuel. Similar torque to the Disco Potato with a significant decrease in response from the standard turbo.
Ease-of-fitting: Direct bolt on. Recommend braided line kit.
Construction: Cast aluminium front housing, cast iron rear housing, forged aluminium compressor wheel, steel turbine wheel, steel ball-bearings (except for the T518Z).
Pros: Popular. One of the larger true bolt-in, low-mount turbos
Cons: Teaser, all the promise, none the delivery. Overrated.
Common Demographic: Those who wanted the promise of power and response in a low-mount turbo before the advent of the GTX2863R. Those who didn't want to make the modifications for a GT(X)3071R.
Price: Approximately $1500 brand new
Affect on performance: Approximately 240rwkW on a Stage 1 setup @ 18psi on pump fuel. Increase in torque not too much decrease in response from the standard turbo. 270rwkW on E85 with the right supporting mods (exhaust manifold, 1000cc injectors).
Ease-of-fitting: Not a true direct bolt on - requires modified or custom intake pipe. Recommend braided line kit.
Construction: Cast aluminium front housing, cast iron rear housing, billet compressor wheel, steel turbine wheel, steel ball-bearings.
Pros: Significant power upgrade from factory. Responsive. New.
Cons: Not a true bolt on turbo.
Common Demographic: Those who may have wanted a GTX2871R but held out.
Currently, it's the most power-productive, low-mount, direct bolt-on turbo that is available for the SR20DET Silvia. Being a true bolt means that any Silvia sporting its standard turbo can upgrade to the Precision 5130 without any modification needed to the intake pipe, hot-side intercooler pipe, dump pipe and exhaust manifold.
So far this turbo has made 260+rwkW on 98RON in an S15 with a complete standard engine (Stage 1 setup) and 320+rwkW on the same setup on E85. There was still more in it on E85 however the fuel pump in that setup would not push any more fuel - It was only a Walbro 255Lph after all. (On that note, ensure you have a read up on my fuel pump comparo to find out why the Walbro 255Lph fuel pump wouldn't be a good choice for this turbo).
I'm still yet to see what this turbo is capable of when pushed harder. So, if there are any takers out there who are keen to see how far this turbo can go, drop me a line.
Price: $1888 brand new
Affect on performance: Approximately 250rwkW on a Stage 1 setup @ 18psi on pump fuel.
320+rwkW on E85 with the right spporting mods (stage 1 with 1000cc injectors and E85 ready fuel pump).
Ease-of-fitting: Direct bolt on. Recommend braided line kit.
Construction: Cast aluminium front housing, cast iron rear housing, billet aluminium compressor wheel, steel turbine wheel, steel ball-bearings.
Pros: Significant power upgrade from factory. Responsive. Largest low-mount, true bolt-on turbo available on the market
Cons: Rare. Price changes according to exchange rates (can be a pro too)
Common Demographic: The power-hungry experimenter.
Dubbed the "Super Duper" by its creator(s), this turbocharger is in its other forms, a completely low-mount, bolt-in unit. Of course the one you see here is reps a V-band rear housing which was a request by yours-truly for the want of externally gating the turbo.
One of the other instances of this turbo went off to achieve a punchy 280rwkW on 98RON on a standard motor with drop-in cams. I'm wanting to see what it's going to do on E85. I'll write on results as they happen.
Price: Custom jobby
Affect on performance: 280rwkW on a Stage 1 setup with drop-in cams on pump fuel.
320+rwkW expected on E85.
Ease-of-fitting: Direct bolt on. This one in particular requires a new v-band dump pipe.
Construction: Cast aluminium front housing, cast iron rear housing, forged aluminium compressor wheel, steel turbine wheel, steel ball-bearings.
Pros: Very significant power upgrade from factory. Responsive. Largest low-mount, true bolt-on turbo available on the market.
Cons: Rare. Doesn't officially exist.
Common Demographic: The power-hungry, low-mount extraordinaire
The only reason why this turbo even features in this comparo is because it has countlessly been "forced to fit" the low mount role by the will of power-addicted owners with a penchant for clever ingenuity.
This unit will low-mount with the help of a custom-fabricated aftermarket exhaust manifold. A modified or custom dump pipe will need to be fabbed up, as would an intake pipe and your hot-side intercooler pipe. Additional to this, the engine mount will need some "modifications" made with an angle grinder. Definitely not a bolt-on turbo.
The relative costliness and requirement for lots of modifications, this setup defeats a lot of the purpose of choosing a low-mount turbo in the first place (cheap and easy). However, with the trade of repping power levels starting at 250rwkW on a Stage 1 setup, it's not hard to see why it attracts a lot of fans.
Price: $2,200 brand new
Affect on performance: Approximately 250-270rwkW on a Stage 1 setup on pump fuel.
330+rwkW on a E85.
Ease-of-fitting: Not a direct bolt on - requires new intake pipe, custom exhaust manifold, hot-side intercooler pipe, custom dump pipe, braided line kit.
Construction: Cast aluminium front housing, cast iron rear housing, billet aluminium compressor wheel, steel turbine wheel, steel ball-bearings.
Pros: Significant power upgrade from factory. Largest low-mount option available for the SR20DET.
Cons: Pricey. Not a simple bolt on - lots of modifications required.
Common Demographic: The ones who can afford it.
In summary
This chart pretty much wraps up my thoughts and experiences on the range of low-mount SR20 options I've had the pleasure (and often displeasure) of working with over the last several years in industry.
Hope this write-up was able to clarify a few things for you my discerning reader. If you have any questions about this write-up, then please do leave a comment below.
Before you go though. I would really love to see your thoughts. Please take a few seconds to fill out the questionnaire below.
Low-mount turbo
In this article we'll strictly address the line of Nissan Silvias in the 2.0L turbocharged variety (the most commonly modified one). Whether it be for the thick-skinned 13, old-famed 14, or fast-maturing 15; the low mount turbo for the SR20DET is a strategic option for those chasing a quick and nasty power upgrade, with as little fuss as possible.
Before we begin, just a few acknowledgements to a few peers who have been my teachers, guides and mentors. Thanks to Chea of Powertune Australia for his undying passion and untiring inquisitive spirit who is always on a personal mission to perfect the turbocharged injection engine.
Also, a warm thank you to Sunny, my old, grumpy and curious friend who for years has endured my incessant questioning. Along with him, thank you Kemp (STR8E180) also of Powertune Australia for his ever fervent pursuit for maximal performance in street-car modifications. To you two guys, I also say thank you for building me a "Super Duper".
Without you all, this article would not have come about so detailed.
We'll be comparing several notable factors that stand out to comparing these turbos. They are:
Price: Rough price on these turbos brand new and second hand if available
Affect on performance: What performance changes can be expected
Ease-of-fitting: Testing how close it is to being a true 'bolt-on' turbo
Construction: Materials and/or manufacturing process used
Pros: The good
Cons: The bad
Common Demographic: Common buyers of this turbo
I'll aim at covering the market-share of tried, tested and proven turbochargers, so although there may be a list of turbochargers which suit the testing criteria, if you don't see it here, it's because it's not something I've seen a lot of - thus can't really comment on.
All tests were carried out with SR20 Silvias that are at what I have affectionately dubbed, "The Stage 1 Level of Modification". A Silvia at Stage 1 generally means it reps a fmic, full turbo-back exhaust, boost controller, fuel pump upgrade, injector upgrade aftermarket ECU, Z32 AFM (or MAP sensor) and a tune - AKA "The usual mods".
Onto the comparo.
The Comparo
Garrett GT2560R A/R 0.64
Also known as "The Jap spec turbo" (Sorry Kenji), or the "T28BB," this turbo came factory standard with Japanese delivered S14s and S15s. It's a popular choice for many Silvia owners who didn't have this turbo on their cars from factory (ie all S13s and all Aussie spec S14s and S15s).Sure enough against the tiny T25 that came with all S13s, it's a an upgrade. However, this guy is not much of an upgrade when compared to its S14 and S15 journal bearing counter-parts.
Many gurus will argue that the ball-bearing variant will spool up quicker and make a little more power than the journal-bearing version. However, I'm yet to find a single soul who can pick the difference between either turbo when measuring in-the-seat-of-the-pants experience - because I can't.
This turbo is a popular choice because you can get away with fitting it to a factory SR20 Silvia without having to retune it (not that it's a good idea). Furthermore, it's cheap. You can pick one up second for a couple of hundred bucks max, or brand new for about $1400.
Price: Approximately $1400 brand new or $200-$400 second hand
Affect on performance: Approximately 200rwkW on a Stage 1 setup @ 18psi on pump fuel. Response as standard.
Ease-of-fitting: Direct bolt on. Recommend braided line kit.
Construction: Cast aluminium front housing, cast iron rear housing, forged aluminium compressor wheel, steel turbine wheel, steel ball-bearings.
Pros: Cheap, an upgrade when compared to the standard S13 T25.
Cons: Not much of an upgrade at all.
Common Demographic: Those looking to replace their damaged standard turbo.
Garrett GT2860RS A/R 0.64 or 0.86
Named affectionately as the "Disco Potato". The story behind the odd nomenclature originates from the U.S of A. Many moons back when this turbo was first developed, it was tested on a poo brown Nissan Sentra.Although it only put out a meager 209kW at the wheels, the judges were highly impressed by its torque and lack of turbo lag. The poo brown Sentra would dance like it was 1999, earning the name "The Disco Potato". The turbo immediately adopted the name of the car it was tested on and has been known as the Disco Potato since.
This turbo was once a favoured upgrade for the SR20DET Silvias. It was a direct bolt-on replacement, relatively cheap and although didn't offer gigantic power upgrades, certainly did (and does) provide a big torquey kick in the pants.
A lot of people got into the habit of strapping this onto their setups without a tune. I remember one of the first 180SXs I had ever test driven and considered buying repped a Disco Potato with no tune. Oh memories.
One common mistake I've come across is this turbo being mistaken for the GT2871RS or GTRS listed below. Comes in both 0.64 and 0.86 A/R, both which are popular.
An energetic little turbo that will provide plenty of fun to those who don't demand massive power.
Price: Approximately $1400 brand new or $800 second hand
Affect on performance: On the 0.64 rear housing - Approximately 200rwkW on a Stage 1 setup @ 18psi on pump fuel. Increased torque and response from the standard turbo. Very snappy.
On the 0.86 rear housing - Approximately 220rwkW on a Stage 1 setup @ 18psi on pump fuel. Higher torque but lower response from the standard turbo.
Ease-of-fitting: Direct bolt on. Recommend braided line kit.
Construction: Cast aluminium front housing, cast iron rear housing, forged aluminium compressor wheel, steel turbine wheel, steel ball-bearings.
Pros: Cheap, an upgrade when compared to any standard Silvia turbo.
Cons: Not a large power upgrade.
Common Demographic: Those looking for a little extra excitement from the standard setup.
Garrett GT2871R A/R 0.64
HKS GT-RS A/R 0.64
Trust T518Z A/R 0.64 (Journal bearing only) (tiny bit more power and torque)
The GT2871R is commonly mistaken as the above mentioned Disco Potato. If you know how or why this came to be then I would love to hear it!This turbocharger once used to (and still does to a degree) dominate online forums as being one of the best or most highly rated turbochargers for a street-driven SR20DET Silvia. Being (at the time) the largest low-mount, true-bolt-in turbo solution, it's not hard to see why.
However, compared to the standard unit, the turbo is a little on the lazy side and although offers a decent power upgrade, is often criticized for not justifying the amount of lag it introduces (All the tease, none the squeeze). This is particularly apparent in the 0.86 rear housing (heaven knows who or what convinced those poor souls to purchase this already laggy turbo in a 0.86!).
Overall, a tease. The GT2871R has a bark that is a lot more impressive than its bite.
Note: The T518Z is a journal bearing turbo and generally sees slightly higher power figures than its ball-bearing counter-parts. Because of such a small difference in testing criteria, I feel it's appropriate to bundle these turbos together.
Price: Approximately $1500 brand new or $1100 second hand
Affect on performance: Approximately 225rwkW on a Stage 1 setup @ 18psi on pump fuel. Similar torque to the Disco Potato with a significant decrease in response from the standard turbo.
Ease-of-fitting: Direct bolt on. Recommend braided line kit.
Construction: Cast aluminium front housing, cast iron rear housing, forged aluminium compressor wheel, steel turbine wheel, steel ball-bearings (except for the T518Z).
Pros: Popular. One of the larger true bolt-in, low-mount turbos
Cons: Teaser, all the promise, none the delivery. Overrated.
Common Demographic: Those who wanted the promise of power and response in a low-mount turbo before the advent of the GTX2863R. Those who didn't want to make the modifications for a GT(X)3071R.
Garrett GTX2863R A/R 0.64
The Garrett GTX2863R is a recent addition to the market and is positioned to replace Garrett's ageing GT2871R. Sporting the GTX format means that this turbo reps a billet compressor wheel and 11 intake fan blades instead of the traditional 6.
A very promising turbo which has seen some great results so far, this turbo is very snappy. It offers much quicker response than the GT2871R and more power. However, it's not a true bolt on turbo kit.
Modifications to the intake pipe (if not a custom intake pipe) and hot-side intercooler pipe are needed to fit up to this turbo.
I'd like to think that this is the turbo that every GT2871R owner expected when they bought their turbos. It offers both power and response. When performing, it is sure of itself and delivers power confidently.
Price: Approximately $1500 brand new
Affect on performance: Approximately 240rwkW on a Stage 1 setup @ 18psi on pump fuel. Increase in torque not too much decrease in response from the standard turbo. 270rwkW on E85 with the right supporting mods (exhaust manifold, 1000cc injectors).
Ease-of-fitting: Not a true direct bolt on - requires modified or custom intake pipe. Recommend braided line kit.
Construction: Cast aluminium front housing, cast iron rear housing, billet compressor wheel, steel turbine wheel, steel ball-bearings.
Pros: Significant power upgrade from factory. Responsive. New.
Cons: Not a true bolt on turbo.
Common Demographic: Those who may have wanted a GTX2871R but held out.
Precision 5130
Now here's one that's really fresh off the press. Manufactured by Precision Turbo and Engine from Hebron Illinois, this unit is exclusive only to Powertune Australia and Rotormaster in Sydney Australia. Although it may have only entered the market recently it already boasts some impressive results.Currently, it's the most power-productive, low-mount, direct bolt-on turbo that is available for the SR20DET Silvia. Being a true bolt means that any Silvia sporting its standard turbo can upgrade to the Precision 5130 without any modification needed to the intake pipe, hot-side intercooler pipe, dump pipe and exhaust manifold.
So far this turbo has made 260+rwkW on 98RON in an S15 with a complete standard engine (Stage 1 setup) and 320+rwkW on the same setup on E85. There was still more in it on E85 however the fuel pump in that setup would not push any more fuel - It was only a Walbro 255Lph after all. (On that note, ensure you have a read up on my fuel pump comparo to find out why the Walbro 255Lph fuel pump wouldn't be a good choice for this turbo).
I'm still yet to see what this turbo is capable of when pushed harder. So, if there are any takers out there who are keen to see how far this turbo can go, drop me a line.
Price: $1888 brand new
Affect on performance: Approximately 250rwkW on a Stage 1 setup @ 18psi on pump fuel.
320+rwkW on E85 with the right spporting mods (stage 1 with 1000cc injectors and E85 ready fuel pump).
Ease-of-fitting: Direct bolt on. Recommend braided line kit.
Construction: Cast aluminium front housing, cast iron rear housing, billet aluminium compressor wheel, steel turbine wheel, steel ball-bearings.
Pros: Significant power upgrade from factory. Responsive. Largest low-mount, true bolt-on turbo available on the market
Cons: Rare. Price changes according to exchange rates (can be a pro too)
Common Demographic: The power-hungry experimenter.
Super Duper
This here turbo is a bit of a surprise entrant. It's only the third of its kind to have ever been crafted and of the three that exist, none are exactly the same. So although it's not available in commercial quantities, because it's an experiment that I'll be getting involved in, I thought to add it to this list.Dubbed the "Super Duper" by its creator(s), this turbocharger is in its other forms, a completely low-mount, bolt-in unit. Of course the one you see here is reps a V-band rear housing which was a request by yours-truly for the want of externally gating the turbo.
One of the other instances of this turbo went off to achieve a punchy 280rwkW on 98RON on a standard motor with drop-in cams. I'm wanting to see what it's going to do on E85. I'll write on results as they happen.
Price: Custom jobby
Affect on performance: 280rwkW on a Stage 1 setup with drop-in cams on pump fuel.
320+rwkW expected on E85.
Ease-of-fitting: Direct bolt on. This one in particular requires a new v-band dump pipe.
Construction: Cast aluminium front housing, cast iron rear housing, forged aluminium compressor wheel, steel turbine wheel, steel ball-bearings.
Pros: Very significant power upgrade from factory. Responsive. Largest low-mount, true bolt-on turbo available on the market.
Cons: Rare. Doesn't officially exist.
Common Demographic: The power-hungry, low-mount extraordinaire
Garret GT3071R A/R 0.64
Garrett GTX3071R A/R 0.64
Not to be taken lightly, the Garrett GT3071R or GTX3071R turbos are by no stretch of the imagination a simple and true bolt-in turbocharger for the SR20DET. In fact, this turbo is much more commonly found in the high-mounted position when strapped onto an SR20DET.The only reason why this turbo even features in this comparo is because it has countlessly been "forced to fit" the low mount role by the will of power-addicted owners with a penchant for clever ingenuity.
This unit will low-mount with the help of a custom-fabricated aftermarket exhaust manifold. A modified or custom dump pipe will need to be fabbed up, as would an intake pipe and your hot-side intercooler pipe. Additional to this, the engine mount will need some "modifications" made with an angle grinder. Definitely not a bolt-on turbo.
The relative costliness and requirement for lots of modifications, this setup defeats a lot of the purpose of choosing a low-mount turbo in the first place (cheap and easy). However, with the trade of repping power levels starting at 250rwkW on a Stage 1 setup, it's not hard to see why it attracts a lot of fans.
Price: $2,200 brand new
Affect on performance: Approximately 250-270rwkW on a Stage 1 setup on pump fuel.
330+rwkW on a E85.
Ease-of-fitting: Not a direct bolt on - requires new intake pipe, custom exhaust manifold, hot-side intercooler pipe, custom dump pipe, braided line kit.
Construction: Cast aluminium front housing, cast iron rear housing, billet aluminium compressor wheel, steel turbine wheel, steel ball-bearings.
Pros: Significant power upgrade from factory. Largest low-mount option available for the SR20DET.
Cons: Pricey. Not a simple bolt on - lots of modifications required.
Common Demographic: The ones who can afford it.
In summary
Affordability | Affect on performance | Ease of fitting | Thumbnail | |
GT2560 | ||||
---|---|---|---|---|
GT2860RS | ||||
GT2871RS/GT-RS/T518Z | ||||
GTX2863R | ||||
PTE-HP5130 | ||||
"Super Duper" | ||||
GTX3071R |
Hope this write-up was able to clarify a few things for you my discerning reader. If you have any questions about this write-up, then please do leave a comment below.
Before you go though. I would really love to see your thoughts. Please take a few seconds to fill out the questionnaire below.
Low-mount turbo
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Friday, 30 August 2013
Something on fuel pumps
I thought I'd do a bit of a spiel on fuel pumps today as it's a topic of conversation that has reached across the lunch tables of many a tuning shop.
Of course, don't take everything I say as gospel, this is simply some things I've learned throughout the years. No I'm no scientist, I'm no engineer and although I quite geek, I'm not a data monger. However if there's any information I feel is helpful, I'll put that up :)
Pressure versus Flow
When it comes to fuel systems, there are three functions that shape performance - Pressure, flow and voltage. Pressure and flow are going to be the main factors that we'll be looking at.
One thing that took me ages to get my head around is the simple physics of a fuel system all cars. Did you know that fuel pressure is at it's highest NOT when your engine is screaming and your turbo is at it's most boost-productive? Nope, your fuel pressure highest when your car is at idle.
Maybe many of you are thinking "well duh" but hey, it took me a good 20 minutes to get my head around this. Here's a simple parallel that helped me get it. Think of your fuel system as a closed circuit, like a garden hose. When at idle, your fuel pump is pushing fuel into a circuit that doesn't have a high output demand. Like the metaphorical garden hose set with a very small trickle at the end, the fluid within the circuit is under high pressure.
Under load however, things change. Under load is when your injectors are flowing at their highest.- like the garden hose that is open all the way. Although flow may be at its max, pressure in the line isn't as high when on idle.
This is where we find the line that divides a good fuel pump, from a great fuel pump. The job of the fuel pump is to supply fuel to the fuel rails, yes (duh). But in order to do this well, it must provide both flow volume AND pressure.
Imagine being a fuel pump sitting in a fuel tank. You essentially have two jobs. One job is to lift fuel up from the tank into the fuel circuit. The other job then is to keep this circuit pressurised so that fuel can flow through the injectors into cylinders. It may sound simple enough, but it's a tough job, especially if you're not a very big pump and especially if you've got big expectations on your shoulders.
Why fuel pumps fail
Here's a free one I learned from head tuner Chea from Powertune Australia. As a rule of thumb, every PSI of boost that comes through a turbocharged system demands one PSI of fuel pressure above base pressure.
So say base fuel pressure is at 40PSI. A turbocharged system at 36PSI boost will demand a whopping 76PSI from the circuit. Imagine being the poor fuel pump called to this kind of duty. You wouldn't last very long.
Most of the fuel pumps fails I've seen are attributed to wear on the internal motors. At anything over 60PSI fuel pressure and max flow, your fuel pump is really hitting the ends of itself and it's not going to be staying around. Other reasons why pumps fail is due to sucking up debris within the fuel which chews out the internal gears of the pump. For all the smaller fuel pumps, this is much more of a danger than the bulky ones like the Bosch (See below in the Comparo).
Back in the day of plain old octane tuning, there was no such thing as stupid amounts of boost. 24psi was about as high as you went which meant your fuel pump would be stretching to about 64PSI. However with the arrival of E85, previously unheard of boost pressures are now commonplace. This in turn has taken its toll on non-E85 ready fuel pumps.
One way to get around this is to have more than one pump like offered by this Powertune twin in-tank fuel pump kit. By doubling up on fuel pumps, you're essentially halving the job for each fuel pump. These kits are quiet in operation and don't take up any more room than the factory setup so are ultimate for the street-sleeper.
Another way to get enough fuel through smaller pumps is to run a surge tank setup. In a surge tank setup, one pump is designated as a lift-pump - lifting fuel into an external tank. A separate pump is (or series of pumps are) assigned purely to "push" the fuel from the external tank into the fuel rails. By not doubling up on duties, the pumps can be a lot more efficient at what they do. Surge tanks are bulky albeit effective.
Not all fuel pumps are the same! (Duh). A particular pump may have amazing performance on idle, but absolutely suck under boost. Vice versa, some pumps might look a little shaky on idle and cause you to think "How on earth will this keep up with what I need" but then "POW!" when boost starts roaring, the pump arks up and puts on a show. Have a look at the graphs at the end of this write-up. In particular look at how the Bosch 044s compare to the Walbro. On idle, they're on par, but come the demand for fuel and the Bosch flogs ahead.
So key points to note about fuel pumps:
- It's not just about all about how much fuel they can move. A pump is judged on how much pressure it can create and handle.
- Although fuel pressure is highest on idle, fuel pumps work hardest under load as they struggle to flow, whilst maintaining high pressure.
- Multiple fuel pumps are a good idea.
- PSI of fuel pressure required on boost = PSI of base fuel pressure + PSI of boost
- Going with the above equation, E85 has put the pressure on fuel pumps.
A small comparo
Anyway, onto the comparo. Below is a list of some common fuel pumps you'll see in the market and some impressions I've picked up over the years in workshop circles. You'll note that they all hit their limits at about 350kWatw on 98RON and 320kWatw on E85. You might ask "If it's a better pump, shouldn't it make more power?". Short answer. No, better pumps just work better under demand.
This here has been the bread and butter of import tuning for the longest number of years. The Walbro 255 AKA "Walbro fuel pump" still is a hugely popular choice amongst car enthusiasts. Not so much amongst high level performance shops though I've noticed in recent times.
There've been many reports of this fuel pump not coping well under high boost applications. These will hit their limits at about 350kWatw on 98RON, and about 320kWatw on E85 but of course you don't want to be pushing your fuel pump to its limit for extended periods.
After all, if this guys chokes, then that's a potential catastrophic lean-out you have on your hands. You can pick these up for about $100 on eBay but watch out for fakes (yeah there are companies faking $100 items Д゚). This unit will replace a lot of factory fuel pumps.
Approximately $200 will land you one of these guys. Again like the Walbro, 320kWatw on E85 and 350kWatw on 98RON will take this guy to his farthest stretches, but remember, he has proven to to be a lot more reliable when big boost comes knocking.
Still though, we've seen some biggish (400rwkW) setups put twin sets of these guys out of action. Best kept to 98RON setups unless you're going to be doubling up.
These come in two designations, the F90000262 which is the Walbro 400lph fuel pump designed for petroleum-based fuel, and the F90000267 which is aimed for the E85 crowd. You can visually tell them apart by the presence of a plug. Electrical plug means it's the E85 designation. Just terminals means you have the 400lph version.
Although still new to the market at the time of this writing, the Walbro 450lph has already managed to claw its way to the top of the rat pack. It responds very well to boost and being an E85 fuel pump, was born for pushing at high flow-rates.
With big demand for ethanol tuning, we're sure see some promising numbers get pushed out by this bad boy. Stay tuned for more R&D numbers. One of these won't cost you much more than an Aeromotive Stealth fuel pump. $230 retail should score you one and the 450lph E85 pump will hopefully take me in excess of 350rwkW.
What's the difference between the 044 and 040 I hear a lot of people ask? Simple answer is designation.
The Bosch 044 (pictured above as the bottom one) is an inline fuel pump. This means that you don't stick it in your fuel tank! These are best reserved as to simply do the "pushing" of fuel through your lines to your fuel rail. Just like above how we talked about surge tanks. This here is a push pump.
The Bosch 040 however, is an in-tank pump. For a system with an external surge tank or that features inline push pumps, it does the lifting. For a factory setup, it'll do both the lifting and the pushing.
Bosch is certainly a well-established name in this industry, however these pumps have been around for long time now and although are known for being sturdy and faithful, are a bit behind on the tech tree. They're physically larger and much of it's success may be attributed to this. They sport large, hearty motors that just keep going and going. Like an old bulldozer.
$200-$250 will land you one and they'll pump well for up to 350rwkW on 98RON albeit a little less on E85.
I have absolutely no idea about these guys. I recall back when I was working for Fast Fours and Rotaries magazine in 2010 seeing these guys being released into the market for the first time and thinking "Is it really German, or is that part of marketing?".
If they are German, they're definitely not German-priced (cheap as chips and so far seem to carry that stigma that's attached being a bit cheaper). I've come across these fuel pumps a number of times now but never in a large boosted setups - Mainly what Kenji would call "Stage zero modification" which generally means about the 200kWatw mark for am SR20 Silvia or Mitsubishi Evolution.
We all love graphs so here are some comparo graphs for you to stare at. Now I don't know whether or not these were created by researchers or by marketing managers so don't yell at me. It's here for your discernment.
Before you go, please spare just a few seconds to provide some feedback on the below poll.
Helpfulness of article
Of course, don't take everything I say as gospel, this is simply some things I've learned throughout the years. No I'm no scientist, I'm no engineer and although I quite geek, I'm not a data monger. However if there's any information I feel is helpful, I'll put that up :)
Pressure versus Flow
When it comes to fuel systems, there are three functions that shape performance - Pressure, flow and voltage. Pressure and flow are going to be the main factors that we'll be looking at.
One thing that took me ages to get my head around is the simple physics of a fuel system all cars. Did you know that fuel pressure is at it's highest NOT when your engine is screaming and your turbo is at it's most boost-productive? Nope, your fuel pressure highest when your car is at idle.
Maybe many of you are thinking "well duh" but hey, it took me a good 20 minutes to get my head around this. Here's a simple parallel that helped me get it. Think of your fuel system as a closed circuit, like a garden hose. When at idle, your fuel pump is pushing fuel into a circuit that doesn't have a high output demand. Like the metaphorical garden hose set with a very small trickle at the end, the fluid within the circuit is under high pressure.
Under load however, things change. Under load is when your injectors are flowing at their highest.- like the garden hose that is open all the way. Although flow may be at its max, pressure in the line isn't as high when on idle.
This is where we find the line that divides a good fuel pump, from a great fuel pump. The job of the fuel pump is to supply fuel to the fuel rails, yes (duh). But in order to do this well, it must provide both flow volume AND pressure.
Imagine being a fuel pump sitting in a fuel tank. You essentially have two jobs. One job is to lift fuel up from the tank into the fuel circuit. The other job then is to keep this circuit pressurised so that fuel can flow through the injectors into cylinders. It may sound simple enough, but it's a tough job, especially if you're not a very big pump and especially if you've got big expectations on your shoulders.
Why fuel pumps fail
Here's a free one I learned from head tuner Chea from Powertune Australia. As a rule of thumb, every PSI of boost that comes through a turbocharged system demands one PSI of fuel pressure above base pressure.
So say base fuel pressure is at 40PSI. A turbocharged system at 36PSI boost will demand a whopping 76PSI from the circuit. Imagine being the poor fuel pump called to this kind of duty. You wouldn't last very long.
Most of the fuel pumps fails I've seen are attributed to wear on the internal motors. At anything over 60PSI fuel pressure and max flow, your fuel pump is really hitting the ends of itself and it's not going to be staying around. Other reasons why pumps fail is due to sucking up debris within the fuel which chews out the internal gears of the pump. For all the smaller fuel pumps, this is much more of a danger than the bulky ones like the Bosch (See below in the Comparo).
Back in the day of plain old octane tuning, there was no such thing as stupid amounts of boost. 24psi was about as high as you went which meant your fuel pump would be stretching to about 64PSI. However with the arrival of E85, previously unheard of boost pressures are now commonplace. This in turn has taken its toll on non-E85 ready fuel pumps.
One way to get around this is to have more than one pump like offered by this Powertune twin in-tank fuel pump kit. By doubling up on fuel pumps, you're essentially halving the job for each fuel pump. These kits are quiet in operation and don't take up any more room than the factory setup so are ultimate for the street-sleeper.
Another way to get enough fuel through smaller pumps is to run a surge tank setup. In a surge tank setup, one pump is designated as a lift-pump - lifting fuel into an external tank. A separate pump is (or series of pumps are) assigned purely to "push" the fuel from the external tank into the fuel rails. By not doubling up on duties, the pumps can be a lot more efficient at what they do. Surge tanks are bulky albeit effective.
Not all fuel pumps are the same! (Duh). A particular pump may have amazing performance on idle, but absolutely suck under boost. Vice versa, some pumps might look a little shaky on idle and cause you to think "How on earth will this keep up with what I need" but then "POW!" when boost starts roaring, the pump arks up and puts on a show. Have a look at the graphs at the end of this write-up. In particular look at how the Bosch 044s compare to the Walbro. On idle, they're on par, but come the demand for fuel and the Bosch flogs ahead.
So key points to note about fuel pumps:
- It's not just about all about how much fuel they can move. A pump is judged on how much pressure it can create and handle.
- Although fuel pressure is highest on idle, fuel pumps work hardest under load as they struggle to flow, whilst maintaining high pressure.
- Multiple fuel pumps are a good idea.
- PSI of fuel pressure required on boost = PSI of base fuel pressure + PSI of boost
- Going with the above equation, E85 has put the pressure on fuel pumps.
A small comparo
Anyway, onto the comparo. Below is a list of some common fuel pumps you'll see in the market and some impressions I've picked up over the years in workshop circles. You'll note that they all hit their limits at about 350kWatw on 98RON and 320kWatw on E85. You might ask "If it's a better pump, shouldn't it make more power?". Short answer. No, better pumps just work better under demand.
Walbro 255lph - GSS341
This here has been the bread and butter of import tuning for the longest number of years. The Walbro 255 AKA "Walbro fuel pump" still is a hugely popular choice amongst car enthusiasts. Not so much amongst high level performance shops though I've noticed in recent times.
There've been many reports of this fuel pump not coping well under high boost applications. These will hit their limits at about 350kWatw on 98RON, and about 320kWatw on E85 but of course you don't want to be pushing your fuel pump to its limit for extended periods.
After all, if this guys chokes, then that's a potential catastrophic lean-out you have on your hands. You can pick these up for about $100 on eBay but watch out for fakes (yeah there are companies faking $100 items Д゚). This unit will replace a lot of factory fuel pumps.
Aeromotive 340lph - AER11142
This one is relatively new on the market but has left quite an impact. Experience reports it to responds to boost demands a lot more capable than the Walbro GSS341. I'm seeing a lot of workshops and customers switching over to this fuel pump especially when fuel-shortage on boost is an issue.Approximately $200 will land you one of these guys. Again like the Walbro, 320kWatw on E85 and 350kWatw on 98RON will take this guy to his farthest stretches, but remember, he has proven to to be a lot more reliable when big boost comes knocking.
Still though, we've seen some biggish (400rwkW) setups put twin sets of these guys out of action. Best kept to 98RON setups unless you're going to be doubling up.
Walbro 450lph - F90000267
These come in two designations, the F90000262 which is the Walbro 400lph fuel pump designed for petroleum-based fuel, and the F90000267 which is aimed for the E85 crowd. You can visually tell them apart by the presence of a plug. Electrical plug means it's the E85 designation. Just terminals means you have the 400lph version.
Although still new to the market at the time of this writing, the Walbro 450lph has already managed to claw its way to the top of the rat pack. It responds very well to boost and being an E85 fuel pump, was born for pushing at high flow-rates.
With big demand for ethanol tuning, we're sure see some promising numbers get pushed out by this bad boy. Stay tuned for more R&D numbers. One of these won't cost you much more than an Aeromotive Stealth fuel pump. $230 retail should score you one and the 450lph E85 pump will hopefully take me in excess of 350rwkW.
Bosch 044 or Bosch 040
What's the difference between the 044 and 040 I hear a lot of people ask? Simple answer is designation.
The Bosch 044 (pictured above as the bottom one) is an inline fuel pump. This means that you don't stick it in your fuel tank! These are best reserved as to simply do the "pushing" of fuel through your lines to your fuel rail. Just like above how we talked about surge tanks. This here is a push pump.
The Bosch 040 however, is an in-tank pump. For a system with an external surge tank or that features inline push pumps, it does the lifting. For a factory setup, it'll do both the lifting and the pushing.
Bosch is certainly a well-established name in this industry, however these pumps have been around for long time now and although are known for being sturdy and faithful, are a bit behind on the tech tree. They're physically larger and much of it's success may be attributed to this. They sport large, hearty motors that just keep going and going. Like an old bulldozer.
$200-$250 will land you one and they'll pump well for up to 350rwkW on 98RON albeit a little less on E85.
Deatschwerks
I have absolutely no idea about these guys. I recall back when I was working for Fast Fours and Rotaries magazine in 2010 seeing these guys being released into the market for the first time and thinking "Is it really German, or is that part of marketing?".
If they are German, they're definitely not German-priced (cheap as chips and so far seem to carry that stigma that's attached being a bit cheaper). I've come across these fuel pumps a number of times now but never in a large boosted setups - Mainly what Kenji would call "Stage zero modification" which generally means about the 200kWatw mark for am SR20 Silvia or Mitsubishi Evolution.
We all love graphs so here are some comparo graphs for you to stare at. Now I don't know whether or not these were created by researchers or by marketing managers so don't yell at me. It's here for your discernment.
Have a look at so graphs at the end of this write-up in particular look at how the Bosch compares to the Walbro. On idle, they're on par, but come the demand for fuel and the Bosch flogs ahead. |
Before you go, please spare just a few seconds to provide some feedback on the below poll.
Helpfulness of article
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Powertune Australia
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